1) Arista di Maiale con Salvia e Rosmarino
This dish at Trattoria del Fagioli was even better than my mother’s Christmas turkey and my mom is a very good cook. I asked the owner how it was made, already with a plan in my head that I should attempt to replicate it this year at Christmas.
The family that has run Del Fagioli for the past 50 years serves up good quality traditional food and in a lively and friendly atmosphere. They accept cash only.
Corso dei Tintori, 47r
Open Mon-Sun for lunch and dinner.
Closed Saturdays and Sundays.
2) Tagliatelle con Porcini e Nepitella
At Trattoria Angiolino I had the best pasta dish of my recent visit to Florence. Along with the luscious silky nature of porcini, the addition of calamint lifted the dish a bit higher toward the heavens.
In 2015 this trattoria was overhauled and its new look retains traditional elements and yet feels modern. I noticed the same attractive blue and white ceramic plates that I remember from 13 Gobbi, (a pretty trattoria that I used to take clients to 12 years ago when I was living in Florence running my wedding business) and I realized that Angiolino’s new owner is the same padrone of 13 Gobbi.
Via Santo Spirito, 36r
Open daily, for lunch and dinner
3) Pizza Bianca con Asparagi, Cipolloti Primaverili, Fiordilatte, e Pecorino Romano
This pizza at Berberè blew my socks off. The ancient grains dough had a healthy sourdough flavor and the inside of it almost had the texture of a croissant, while the outside had a perfect crunch. The sweetness of the spring onions combined wonderfully with sourdough, and the cheese was ultra-soft, melting buttery in my mouth.
Berberè was opened in 2014 with a commitment to organic pizza, made with stone-ground organic flour— “never double zero flour” the waitress was quick to tell me. You can choose your dough: enkir wheat, kamut, spelt, ancient grains, or whole wheat. Berberè rocks and people know it so you need a reservation.
Piazza dei Nerli, 1
Open every evening, and also at lunch on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday