Wondering where to see fantastic art for free in Florence?
The city has so much art in its churches—of such high quality—that you almost don’t need to pay for museums.
Lets have a look at the church Santo Spirito and some masterpieces there, in situ.
You may think the plain exterior of Santo Spirito means there is nothing special inside. You would be wrong.
The church was designed by none other than Filippo Brunelleschi (architect of Florence’s dome). The original church was established in 1250 by Augustinian monks but Brunelleshi was hired to create a new and better church in the mid 1400s. Construction had barely begun however, when the great architect died, and the rest of it was carried out by his followers, including Antonio Manetti who wrote a biography of Brunelleschi.
The perfect Renaissance church
Here our Renaissance hero used his architectural formula of eleven braccia fiorentina to create the utmost harmony. The two side aisles are half the width of the center aisle and each side chapel is a square of eleven braccia, topped by a semi-sphere. Brunelleschi repeats the mathematical elegance of circles and squares throughout the design—a recuperation of the architectural geometry of the ancient world, making it the perfect Renaissance church.
Harmony is also found in the simple tones of creamy white walls and gray Pietra Serena stone arches. The church makes a stark contrast with the ornate baroque churches that came over a hundred years later.
Not only are there some wonderful Renaissance and Mannerist paintings down each side aisle and around the ambulatory, but in the sacristy, there’s crucifix attributed to Michelangelo.
Michelangelo’s Crucifix?
In 1492 Michelangelo went to the convent of Santo Spirito to ask permission (which he was granted) to make anatomical studies of corpses in the monastery’s hospital. In return, he carved a crucifix for the church. We know this from Giorgio Vasari–(the first Italian art historian who wrote a series of biographies of artists in the mid 1500s.)
“For the Church of Santo Spirito in the city of Florence Michelagnolo made a Crucifix of wood, which was placed, as it still is, above the lunette of the high altar; doing this to please the Prior, who placed rooms at his disposal, in which he was constantly flaying dead bodies, in order to study the secrets of anatomy…”
The crucifix was believed to be lost, but in the 1960s Doctor Margrit Lisner, an expert on crucifixes, discovered what might be “it” in the Santo Spirito monastery. The monks said they knew it was a fine piece but had no idea it might be so valuable. A debate has ensued among scholars ever since, as to whether it truly was carved by Michelangelo.
It certainly has none of the monumentality that enters his later work. Here, the body is so slender and delicate that it seems prepubescent.
If Michelangelo did this, it would have been in either 1492 or 1493 when he was 17 or 18 years old. The body, with it’s realism and its nakedness is pure Renaissance even if the face carries forward some Gothic features. The contraposto is rendered beautifully with the head hanging to one side and the legs twisting in the other direction.
Art in the Chapels
The first chapel on the left holds a Resurrection by Pier Francesco Foschi. (He also did two other altar pieces for this church.)
One glance at the Resurrection and you know that Foschi painted in the Mannerist style by the bright pink color chosen for the clothing of the Roman soldiers.
You see what he was doing here? Pushing exaggeration to the limits. Quite modern for the 16th century.
Note the gesture of Jesus (his right arm held up, and finger pointing toward Heaven) this the same gesture Plato makes in Raphael’s School of Athens.
In the ambulatory is the very large painting, Christ and the Adulteress by Alessandro Allori and even if you don’t know Allori’s work and don’t look at the date, you note the Mannerist style in the unnaturally bright color of Christ’s gown.
The Adulteress pulls a gypsy style scarf partly over face, reminiscent of Raphael’s Madonna della Sedia.
The most noteworthy painting in this church is by Filippino Lippi. The Nerli Altarpiece as it’s referred to, was commissioned by the Florentine merchant Tanai de’ Nerli and completed by Lippi in 1494.
It shows the Madonna with baby Jesus in her lap and Saint John at her feet (he’s the patron saint of Florence) and on her right is Saint Martin of Tours and on her left is Saint Catherine of Alexandria.
As was the tradition, the donors, (in this case Tanai de’ Nerli and his wife) are depicted kneeling in the foreground.
It was restored in 2011, with GORGEOUS results.
Mary’s red camicia is a most brilliant red. She leans toward Saint Catherine with wonderful heavy-lidded eyes (one thinks of Botticelli here and in fact Filippino Lippi was a pupil of Botticelli.) Saint Catherine’s attire is the reverse of Mary’s (red over blue.)
Also of note is the recognizable San Frediano quarter of Florence in the background.
I re-visit this painting often. See my Christmas Eve video of it here.
Don’t miss this church for fabulous art for free in Florence!
How about visiting Santo Spirito and a secret garden nearby, with me as your guide? Go here for more info.
Margaret says
A true feast for the eyes,heart and intellect! What a lovely way to spend the beginning of a day in Florence, amazingly beautiful art to keep one inspired for many days. I hope you enjoy many more mornings like this !!
Chandi Wyant says
Yes, I don’t tire of popping in and walking through. At Christmas there’s a large nativity scene inside, complete with fake snow descending from above.
Mary Chater says
love it Chandi!
Chandi Wyant says
Ciao Mary, glad you enjoyed it!
Melisa Walker says
I wish I could explore Florence with you Chandi! I so appreciate your art knowledge and attention to detail. I have always wanted to visit all of Michelangelo’s sculptures as described in The Agony and the Ecstasy. I am sure you would be the perfect guide. Glad you are enjoying everything so much. Your enthusiasm is contagious!!
Chandi Wyant says
Lets do it Melisa!
Laura @ Grassroots Nomad says
Florence is my dream destination!!! Hopefully I will eventually make it there and when I do I will be sure to check out all the churches you have mentioned – thanks for the tips!
Chandi Wyant says
Hi Laura, thanks for stopping by and I hope you will be able to visit Florence. If you need any advice, let me know. I offer a free 40 minute consult!
Christina says
This post reminded me of our wonderful day in Florence. We really must go back as we barely scratched the surface. I think next time I will read up more on art in the city to get a full appreciation of all the city has to offer.
Erin says
I really enjoyed reading this! You describe things with such detail and clearly have incredible knowledge and passion for what you’re talking about. I loved learning so many new things. And that Filippo Lippi painting is so beautiful. I love the colors! Can’t wait to get to Florence and see this in person.
Chandi Wyant says
Great Erin! I am glad it inspired you!
Voyager says
We were in Florence only for two days and unfortunately missed this treasure trove of art. I am really overwhelmed by the wooden crucifix and Jesus, wonderful example of the mastery of Michael Angelo. Loved your description and analysis, great post.
Chandi Wyant says
Hi,
Yes, two days will only give you a basic overview of the city. If you start digging into the art that is there, you’ll find that a year is not enough!
Lauren says
You’re totally right! I only had 5 days in Florence, but I know that I barely scratched the surface. There’s just so much incredible history to be discovered!
Cai Dominguez-Travelosyo says
I actually love the unique facade of Santo Spirito, i love its simplicity. And wow I was surprised to see what’s inside. Love the art of this church 🙂
Mar Pages says
I can’t imagine how bright those colours are in real life! Italy is just filled with spectacular art, Rome’s churches blow me away. Have to give Florence a try 🙂
Chandi Wyant says
Yes, the restoration made a world of difference!