Calabria developed a certain reputation in the 1970s when the Calabrian mafia, the ‘Ndrangheta, carried out some high-profile kidnappings. In past decades, this may have influenced tourists not to consider travel in Calabria, but I found it beautiful and relaxed with super welcoming people.
My recent vacation on the Calabrian coast with my Colombian cousins was fantastic. One day we drove from Tropea down to Reggio to see the famous Bronzes of Riace. We took the A3 highway that runs from Salerno to Reggio, and that was finally declared “complete” less than a year ago, in December 2016.
This highway was begun in the 1960s in order to end Calabria’s isolation. The mafia infiltrated the construction of it and received kickbacks and the project dragged on for 50 years and became a billion-dollar-bungle. Italy was ordered to pay back $594 million of the grant money it had received from the European Union for the highway’s construction after the corruption was uncovered.
Many articles have called the highway perilous with badly built bridges, unlit tunnels, constant detours and backed up traffic. We found it to be fine.
With me at the wheel, we cruised down it for about 65 miles to its terminus in the city of Reggio and ran into nary a detour nor broken bridge.
I pulled off in Scilla on the way–I mean, when you remember from Greek Mythology that Scilla (Scylla) was a sea-monster who lived there, guarding the Straights of Messina, you’ve got to stop and see the town.
Scylla had six heads at the end of very long necks. These necks would reach out to passing ships, and the heads with their sharp teeth would snatch sailors and devour them. In The Odyssey, Odysseus loses six men to Scylla in one of the worst setbacks on his voyage.
Calabria is the land of the most wonderful myths of western civilization. I was thrilled to be there.
In Reggio we circled the area where the National Museum is, trying to find parking (I’d be too American to expect the museum to have its own parking) and that was OK because it gave us an overview of the pretty lungomare (seaside promenade) with all the big Banyan trees where we sauntered after seeing the museum.
We found paid parking in a street, but where to pay? I left my cousins standing by the car and went to ask in a bar. I was told to go to the feramenta (hardware store) which I did, but they were out of tickets. I went on down the street to a tabaccheria where I was able to purchase two tickets for an hour each.
“Do I just put them on my windshield?” I asked.
“No, you have to scrape them.”
“Uh… can you show me?”
The man proceeded to scrape off the date, and the start time on one ticket, and then the date and a start time of an hour later on the next ticket. Back in Tuscany, I mentioned this experience to my neighbor, and he said, “Dio mio! We’ve not had that in Toscana for 30 years!”
A block before the museum, we decided to stop in a bar for sustenance. My cousin Tiggy found it hilarious that the enclosed outdoor area of the bar took up half the street while my other cousin Johann enthusiastically exclaimed that he loved the chaos of Reggio.
Finally, we arrived at the museum, to see one of Italy’s most significant and exciting archeological finds of the past 100 years.
The two bronze statues were discovered by a scuba diver in 1972 off the coast of Riace Marina.
They underwent ten years of restoration in Florence before being set up in proudly in Reggio’s museum.
These gorgeous bronzes are from the classical period of fifth century BC in Greece–when the Greeks achieved mastery in sculpture.
What a thrill to stand before them!
Look at the curls of the hair and the teeth and the eyes! Amazing!
They were made 2000 years before the Renaissance and yet perhaps only Michelangelo’s David can match them in terms of execution and skill.
They showed me how the Greeks pushed the boundaries of anatomy, exaggerating realism in human form to create something super-human.
The museum also holds extensive artifacts from, and information about, the colonies of Magna Grecia that flourished in Calabria. (The Greeks colonized the coast of what’s now Calabria in the 8th and 7th centuries BC . The Romans later referred to this as Magna Grecia, “Greater Greece.”)
The Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia is open daily from 9:00am to 8:00pm, except for being closed on Monday.
If you travel in Calabria, don’t miss the Bronzes of Riace!
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Paula Scarpellino says
A goal for our next visit. Sounds great. So many amazing places in Italy.
Chandi Wyant says
I know Paula, a lifetime isn’t enough!
Tiggy says
A marvellous trip! ! Italy and its people are beautiful, the sea is amazing, the climate fantastic, the art inspiring, the food delicious and doing it with Chandi makes it extra special!
Great article. …xx
Chandi Wyant says
Wow, so many compliments ???? So glad to share it with you. ????
Bill says
We stayed in Scilla the night before we saw the Bronzes. They are very impressive! We were doing a “Magna Grecia” trip and toured south of Naples and Scilly, of all the Museum we visited, the one in Taranto was probably the best. Our hostess at the trullo near Locorotondo was surprised we had included Taranto on our itinerary and was rather dismissive of Taranto.
Chandi Wyant says
Hi Bill, I am not surprised she was dismissive of Taranto. I get that attitude so much living here in Italy that I have learned to not pay much attention to it. It is beyond just the north-south thing. I think some of it goes back to the concept of campanilismo. Here in Lucca as I am looking at houses for sale, sometimes I’ll search in the hills on the other side of the city from the hills where I am now and my neighbor will say, “Oh my, why would you look over there? These hills are the best, this is where you need to look!” ????
Margaret says
What totally amazing sculptures, every detail is breathtaking. I’m thrilled that you had this great experience and wish I had been there too, thank you for the excellent photos.
Chandi Wyant says
It would have been great if you could have been with us!
Brooke says
I love your enthusiasm for the little things Chandi! I also love myths and tales they give such a cool narrative before arriving in a place and add a fairytale type quality (even though they obviously aren’t true!). Life should be an adventure and we need all the fairy-tale experiences we can get these days
Chandi Wyant says
What a great way to put it, “fairy-tale experiences”! ????