Piazza Santo Spirito: Come here to hang out in the best local piazza in Florence.
This piazza is in the Oltrarno which means “across the Arno” (the other side of the river from civic and religious centers where the cathedral and town hall are.) If you feel overwhelmed by the crowds on the main side of the river, come over to the Oltrarno and hang out in Piazza Santo Spirito.
I am living near it for the first time, and after my recent visit to the organic market there, I figured I’d share a video of it, and some history of the piazza as seen through my eyes.
It was 1984 when I first walked through the oltrarno, as a wide-eyed 19 year old on a budget backpacking trip to Europe with a girlfriend. Not only was it ten years before email and the internet entered our lives, but we did not even carry with us a guidebook. No one had told us where to go in Florence— apart from my Grandmother telling me I must see the David. And the youth hostel where we lodged gave us no map.
Luckily we meandered into Piazza Santo Spirito. As far as I recall the only establishments there were Trattoria Borgo Antico, and the funky Cabiria Bar where we had cheap Italian beer and panini. This bar is trendy now but back then was a hang-out for the grunge crowd.
For ages Borgo Antico was the place to eat in this piazza. It was my go-to spot through the 90s, during my frequent visits to Firenze. These days so many establishments have cropped up on each side of it that I can barely recognize which one Borgo Antico is.
What is consistent here, is the wonderful church of Santo Spirito, established by Augustinian monks in the mid-1200s. Hard to imagine back then, that this location was on the outskirts of the city. Read here about the inside of this church which is a perfect example of Renaissance architecture.
The vibe back in the 80s and the 90s was more markedly different in this piazza, (as compared to the main side of the river) than now. It was more bohemian/funky and less tourists made their way over here. While it’s no longer as off the beaten path, it still does have a more a local and might I say “earthy” vibe—one that’s best experienced at the organic market (known as La Fierucola in Italian).
Now, come on a walk with me, (video below) to the best local piazza in Florence, check out a piece of my new neighborhood, and in particular the Fierucola, which happens on the 3rd Sunday of each month. I find that when I wander through it, the care these farmers, vintners, and artisans have for the land is palpable.
Lovely writeup and video on Florence. Very lively and charming! Would certainly want to try walking through the places you had introduced the next time I visit Florence. Cheers!
Ciao Claire, thanks for stopping by, glad you liked it!
Oh, how lovely, the Piazza Santo Spirito looks such a lovely place to hang out. I love food markets, so visiting their organic one would be wonderful, plus it looks like a lovely spot to relax.
Ciao Kavita, If you love food markets, definitely try to visit this one when you’re in Florence! ????
I’ll have to refer this to friends looking for restaurants in Florence. It sounds delicious!
Yes, these days there are lots of restaurants to choose from in this piazza, all good!
I have been to Italy more than 10 times but I didn’t make it to Firenze yet! I will keep your post for my visit as I hate overcrowded and non authentic places and your recommendations look ideal !
Ciao Valentini, hope you can make it to Firenze next time, it’s a beautiful city!
Oh, I love Florence and your video took me back so beautifully! Thank You!
You are welcome Juliette! ????
It seems really nice place to visit when in Florence. Will keep that in mind. Thanks for sharing.
Ciao Remo, thanks for stopping by!
Such a nice post. I enjoyed reading about Florence and the local traditions. I will share this for friends.
Cheers! Thanks ????
Your video makes my heart ache. You capture the spirit of Santo Spirito and the beauty of the market so well. Great neighborhood to land in. Especially enjoyed the painted window added for symmetry. It works! You have a great eye for the details and the knowledge to explain them. Thank you!!
Awww, thanks Melisa! I am happy that you appreciate it! ????
Wow! Santo Spirito looks charming and quite lively. I love your video. You’ve perfectly captured the vibes of the city. Hopefully I’ll visit this lovely place some day and soak in its beauty and charm.
Ciao, glad you liked the video! Yes, it’s also very lively at night (in nice weather).
We loved Oltrarno when we visited! I have such fond memories of my 2yo son running around one of the postcard-worthy piazzas while we waited for our dinner and then taking a leisurely stroll with our gelato <3
Hi, what a great memory! I have been with friends who have kids, while eating outside in a piazza and I loved the way the kids ran freely through the piazza the whole time we ate!
Great video and so much great information!
Many thanks! ????????????????